The “salmon sperm facial,” popularized by celebrities like Jennifer Aniston and Kim Kardashian, has taken the beauty industry by storm. But do these treatments actually work? 

The key ingredient behind the trend is polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), a compound derived from salmon DNA that experts suggest may offer meaningful skin-supporting benefits. While it has long been used in medical dermatology—particularly in injectable formulations—it is now emerging as a standout ingredient in topical skincare. This column explores the science behind the hype and why interest in salmon DNA continues to surge. 

According to Spate, consumer interest in PDRN has increased by more than 1,000% over the past year. This growth aligns with broader momentum in the skin rejuvenation market, driven by demand for advanced solutions that balance safety with efficacy. 

The global market was valued at $612.4 million in 2024 and is projected to reach $1.32 billion by 2033, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 8.7%, according to Market Intelo. 

Several dermatologists¹ were asked about this emerging skincare trend and whether it lives up to the hype.

Dr. Ellen Marmur notes that PDRN has become particularly popular in South Korea and parts of Europe for two primary reasons. First, the extracted DNA is rich in proteins and nucleic acids. Second, it exhibits rejuvenating properties that support anti-aging effects. Similarly, dermatologist Dr. Mona Gohara explains that PDRN may stimulate wound healing and collagen production; however, she emphasizes that much of the supporting data comes from medical applications, while promising “fountain of youth” claims may be overstated. 

Cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Dendy Engelman adds that salmon-derived DNA closely resembles human DNA, making it both effective and well tolerated in skincare formulations. Importantly, dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman clarifies a common misconception: polynucleotides are not sperm in the literal sense. Rather, the material is processed and purified to extract DNA, which is then broken down into polynucleotides—the biologically active components used in treatments. 

Dr. Olga Skidman, a licensed aesthetician with a dermatology background, highlights that many clinicians use injectable PDRN to address post-acne scarring, dullness, and overall skin rejuvenation. Dermatologist Dr. Janine Hopkins further explains that PDRN activates receptors linked to fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis and angiogenesis—key mechanisms involved in skin repair and regeneration.

PDRN’S ORIGIN STORY

PDRN is extracted from salmon DNA due to its structural similarity to human DNA. Once isolated, these nucleotide fragments are purified and incorporated into skincare treatments and products. When applied to the skin, they are believed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improve elasticity, soothe irritation, and enhance skin texture by reinforcing the skin barrier—often without the need for harsh active ingredients. 

Notably, some brands are now introducing plant-based or lab-engineered alternatives to meet growing demand for vegan and sustainable options. Scientific studies suggest that PDRN nucleotides can encourage cellular repair and regeneration without triggering a full immune response. The ingredient first gained traction in the early 1980s within medical settings, where it was used to promote wound healing and tissue repair. Today, it is commonly featured in serums, ampoules and sheet masks that promise smoother, more radiant skin. Like many skincare ingredients, the effectiveness of PDRN depends in part on its molecular weight. This factor influences how well the ingredient penetrates the skin—and ultimately, how well it performs. 

“A lower molecular weight improves penetration and often reflects higher purity,” explains Dr. Hopkins. Research indicates that PDRN’s molecular weight can range from 50 to 1,500 kDa, meaning there can be significant variability in performance across formulations. However, molecular weight is not the only consideration. 

Formulation and the delivery system will also influence how effective PDRN can be,” says Miami dermatologist Dr. Anna Chacon. Even high-quality PDRN may be ineffective if the formulation does not facilitate proper skin absorption.

PDRN offers several potential skin benefits. Its anti-inflammatory properties help calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote a more even complexion. It also stimulates collagen production, restoring volume to aging skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and sagging. Additionally, PDRN promotes wound healing by activating fibroblasts, making it beneficial for post-procedural recovery.

As a naturally derived compound, it is generally well tolerated, with minimal side effects reported. Beyond these benefits, PDRN may help improve skin tone by addressing discoloration and dark spots, while also strengthening the skin barrier and enhancing elasticity. From a clinical perspective, PDRN has a long history in dermatology before transitioning into consumer skincare. Today, the trend is evolving toward plant-based and bioengineered PDRN alternatives, which aim to provide similar efficacy with improved sustainability. Due to its regenerative properties, PDRN is increasingly incorporated into anti-aging, soothing, and treatment-focused formulations. It is often paired with complementary ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptides and growth factors to enhance overall performance. 

PDRN is available in multiple dosage forms, including topical serums, creams, masks, injections and treatments involving microneedling. The strongest evidence for its efficacy comes from injectable formulations, which deliver the compound into deeper layers of the skin for more pronounced regenerative effects. In clinical settings, these treatments are often administered alongside microneedling or laser procedures. However, as with any injectable treatment, there are potential risks, including allergic reactions. Individuals with fish allergies may want to avoid salmon-derived PDRN products and treatments. Alternatives, such as ginseng-derived PDRN, are also being explored and show early promise.

A number of PDRN-based skincare products have gained popularity in the market. These include Dr. Reju All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream, formulated with 99% pure salmon DNA alongside hyaluronic acid and niacinamide; Medicube PDRN Pink Collagen Glow Jelly Serum; and Rejuran Turnover Ampoule (C-PDRN), which targets uneven skin tone. Other notable products include VT Cosmetics PDRN 100 Essence, Abib PDRN Retinal Eye Patch, Medicube Jelly Gel Mask with salmon DNA and Innisfree Green Tea Retinol PDRN Firming Serum. 

Multi-use products such as the Kahi Wrinkle Bounce Multi Balm Stick offer convenient hydration and radiance for various areas of the face, while formulations like Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule Serum emphasize deep hydration through encapsulated delivery systems. Additional options include peptide-enriched ampoules and higher-concentration PDRN serums designed for more intensive treatment. 

From a regulatory standpoint, injectable PDRN is not approved in the US for cosmetic use. However, topical PDRN products are permitted, provided they do not make medical claims. Combination treatments, such as microneedling with PDRN, are offered by some clinics as off-label procedures, although there is no formal regulatory guidance specific to these combinations.

In conclusion, PDRN is not a miracle cure, but it is more than just a passing TikTok trend. With over two decades of clinical use and a growing body of peer-reviewed research, it represents a scientifically grounded approach to skin regeneration. While further studies are needed to fully understand its long-term benefits, current evidence suggests that PDRN may improve skin quality, support collagen production, enhance barrier function and promote cellular turnover. As such, it stands out as one of the most scientifically backed skincare innovations² to transition from medical dermatology into mainstream consumer products.

Navin Geria
Chief Scientific Officer

Ayurderm Technologies, LLC
[email protected]

Navin Geria, former Pfizer Research Fellow is a cosmetic and pharmaceutical product development chemist and the chief scientific officer of AyurDerm Technologies LLC, which provides Ayurvedic, natural and cosmeceutical custom formulation development and consulting services to the spa-wellness-dermatology industries. He has launched dozens of cosmeceutical and ayurvedic anti-aging products. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick-Energizer, Bristol-Myers and Spa Dermaceuticals. He has nearly 20 US patents and has been published extensively. Geria edited the Handbook of Skin-Aging Theories for Cosmetic Formulation Development focus book published in April 2016 by Harry’s Cosmeticology. He is a speaker, moderator and chairman at cosmetic industry events. 

References:

1.  Is salmon sperm the secret to amazing skin? We asked derms about buzzy beauty trend. Noelle Inc. CNN Underscored, August 5, 2025.
2. PDRN skincare explained: Is salmon DNA the anti-aging breakthrough of 2025? Science and Stilettos.